Wednesday, 6 November 2013

Turkey Diaries 2013 Out and About.

Although it's been a few months since my holiday I'm going to continue with my diaries and try and bring a bit of Turkish sun to these cold frosty days.

We decide to go to Fethiye this afternoon. We will leave the car and use the local Dolmus which is like a small mini bus. It only costs a few lira but as Dolmus means stuffed you can imagine how many people end up on the bus. When we board the dolmus it's standing room only with nothing to hold to. I'm offered a seat by a Turkish woman in her late thirties, I refuse and she insists so there is nothing I can do but thank her kindly and sit down. Hubby says later that I must look really old to be offered a seat (I hope he's joking) but I like to think It was because I was a visitor and she saw me struggling to hold on.

I'm sitting on  a side bench now and it's a bumpy ride. An elderly Turkish lady next to me holds onto my legs as we screech round a bend.I look for something to steady myself but there's only a row of bottoms in front of my face so I grab my the back of my husband's leg and hold on tight.

Hold tight as we speed round the bend
More people are now being squashed on the bus and an Englishman who speaks good Turkish shouts to the driver that he is taking too many people on board, he then tells us all that when the bus is so full the brakes do not work very efficiently,well that's good to know. Even although I notice that the driver has been driving with his mobile phone glued to his ear the whole journey I still have that excited feeling that only being on a local bus in a foreign country can bring.

Driving through the pine forest
About 40mins later we arrive in Fethiye in one piece and take a walk through back streets as we try to find the old part of the town called the Pastapur which with this being Turkey is not signposted anywhere.
It's about 5pm and still daylight, we pass a school with children playing in the playground. A mother feeds her children and their friends through the railings. She is feeding them soup poured into cups from a large flask, no fast food rubbish here.
This is the Turkey I love, not the bright lights and English bars of Hisaronu or Oulu Deniz but the real life everyday Turkey.
We walk along the harbour with it's many restaurants eventually finding  the Pastapur. This is the old town, a covered maze of shops, bars and restaurants vibrant with people and sounds and smells.
The shops here are lovely, selling Turkish carpets and bedspreads, lamps, painted ceramics. If only I didn't have to go home by plane I would fill the car with treasures.

I buy two hand painted glass plates for my daughter and myself and some more of the little painted bowls that
I buy every year.
We eat just outside the Pastapur in a place called Pass Kepap.Its very busy and full of Turkish people which we know is a sign of good food. Once again the food was lovely and after a few drinks and a walk we are ready for a taxi home as the dolmus doesn't go as far as Kayakoy at night (thank goodness).

The smell coming from the spice stalls is amazing

At the taxi rank a driver says good evening in Turkish and I reply in Turkish and also ask him how he is. My hubby shakes his head and calls me a swot but I'm proud of myself.
Another hair raising journey over the mountain in the dark to the Kaya valley with a driver who looks like he's just left school. I just close my eyes and hope we arrive home safely. We ask to be dropped off at the nearest restaurant as the driver would never find our secluded villa in the dark. As we walk the rest of the way guided by torchlight I refuse to confirm whether we went into the restaurant for another drink and use of their wi fi but ...what do you think?
Restaurant in Pastapur

I could have spent hours in this shop

Fethiye,The lights are dancing waters it was too dark to capture them.


  1. I felt like I was there with you then Anne, especially using the torchlight to find your way home. I love the sound of cicadas at night. Thanks for bringing a little bit of sunshine on a damp November day : )

  2. I like your Turkish diary Anne, and good on you for trying to learn the language a little...
    Sorry I've not dropped by more, its been hectic lately, I'll try and come back more often. :-)

  3. It sounds so wonderful! You seem so at home in Turkey. Have you ever thought about buying a little villa of your own there?

  4. Yes JoJo we would love to do that brut the air fare is too expensive to be able to hop over more than once or twice a year. If you compare Turkey to places like Spain or France the air fare is more than double.

  5. Thanks Marie, I know your busy I was reading yours yesterday.

  6. Thanks Amanda,yes don't really recommend torchlight as a way of getting home it's a bit spooky.

  7. I want to go there so much now, Anne!! I'd love to come with you seem so at home there and the bus ride sounds just like my king of thing...scary but exciting too! You describe it so beautifully, Anne. A lovely post even without the photos!

  8. Oooh, I could smell this! and I love the fish plate. What an interesting country! Even as a non-traveller, I really like the sound of it!

  9. You're so brave, Anne, I wouldn't have lasted ten minutes on that Dolmus! Loving the photos and the diary, you definitely capture the better side of Turkey! Sorry I haven't visited your blog recently, I've been snowed under with writing project and not had much time for blogging. Speak soon! x

  10. Oh I love little towns like this - what fun you had!

  11. I think you would like it there Jo.

  12. Hi Catherine,The dolmus is always scary but I just close my eyes. Hope the writing is going well.

  13. I love the plate too they don't cost much but are heavy to carry in hand luggage.

  14. Thanks Val.We are getting so uised to the more rural places now it'd be hard to go back to luxury.

  15. I think I'd have to bring an entire extra suitcase for plates, glasses and spices. I imagine it would be less costly then shipping them. But I doubt i could leave without some of those beautiful treasures Anne. You're a better woman than I if you do.


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